Discovering the Hidden Gems of the Outer Hebrides

While exploring the islands of the Scottish Outer Hebrides we often took remote roads away from the routes travelled by other visitors. And we were rewarded time and again by such stunning scenery and unique experiences.

That morning, the weather looked less than promising, but we decided to risk it and drive out over the single-track road across the peninsula of Lochportain to the far north-east of the Isle of North Uist.

As we returned from the tiny hamlets of Hoebeg and Cheesebay at the far end of the road, we passed Loch an t-Sagairt lit by the sunlight but with a backdrop of threatening, dark clouds on the horizon. Believe it or not, it didn’t rain.

I was struck by the sheep grazing peacefully on the hillside and how the old fence line led the eye into the image.

For me, there is something special about the Hebridean islands and this scene depicts the ever-present contrasts between darkness and light.

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Eilean Donan Castle: A Scottish Highlands Gem

A must-visit location in the Scottish Highlands for history enthusiasts and photographers alike. The tide was out and the shore was lined with shiny seaweed, the clouds provided a moody backdrop. The island at the confluence of Loch Duich, Loch Long and Loch Alsh is near the pretty village of Dornie.

Actually I set off in the morning for a tour of the Isle of Skye. Unexpectedly, I ended up here at the end of the day. I was ever so lucky to arrive in time to enjoy this amazing view of iconic Eilean Donan Castle. Although I nearly ended up getting stranded. Read on below…

So how did I get on this adventure? During the Skye tour I was offered a lift here. There was a regular local bus back to my hotel. Why not? I double checked the bus time beforehand and checked again with the waitress in the nearby pub at dinner. Yes, the last bus is at 7.45 p.m. from the castle.

I took photos of the castle and the pretty village of Dornie. Then I went for a lovely meal in the village before heading for the bus ahead of time.

But it didn’t come… and I didn’t have an internet connection.

My phone worked so I called my hotel on Skye who gave me the numbers of the two local taxis. One didn’t answer and the other was already on a long trip up the coast. “No way today, sorry.”

Remember, I am on the west coast of Scotland, 9 miles on a dark road from the next town, without a footpath, 11 miles from my hotel on the Isle of Skye. The last bus has officially gone. The only two local taxis are not coming. It is getting dark and cold. I listen to music, dance a little to keep warm.

Suddenly I see an “Out of Service” bus approaching. I almost run out in front of it. I learn that my bus had broken down and this was the replacement bringing people from Glasgow to the Isle of Skye. I hopped on gratefully and eventually got back to my hotel. Where everyone in the meantime knew about the “Glasgae bus breakdoon”.

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Hidden Haven of Coral Beach in Plockton

On my first stopover on my Scottish Grand Tour I found Coral Beach – a real hidden gem – thanks to a tip from fellow travellers whom I got chatting to in picturesque Plockton on the west coast of Bonnie Scotland.
I was staying in a lovely B&B on the shore near Roinn An Fhaing (on the map below) and decided to take the hike up the hill over the peninsula, through the gorse-lined prepared path and finally across a few rocks and slithery stones. I hoped I could make it there and back, take photos – of course – and maybe have a wee paddle in the water too before the forecast rain came. And I did, almost:-)

© WalkHighlands I highly recommend them if you are visiting Scotland and looking for walks, hikes and more.
Locals having a siesta
Path with view of Loch Kishorn and mountains
Coral is not coral

“The beach is not actually made of coral but of minute pieces of calcified algae known as maerl. Living maerl is a pink and purple seaweed that covers the sea floor with broad beds of spiky carpets. Maerl is a coralline type of algae, which means that it deposits lime on its cell walls as it grows.” (Thanks to “British Express” for the information.)

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Picturesque Plockton at Dusk: A Trip of a Lifetime

I’d beem dreaming of doing the Scottish Grand Tour for long time, and researched and booked the accommodation months before.

The weather forecast a couple of days beforehand was incredibly bad, and I even considered cutting my losses and cancelling. But I’m so pleased that I didn’t. It was a trip of a lifetime in so many ways.

At the end of May I set off on the rail tour from Edinburgh via Perth, Dunkeld and Inverness to picturesque Plockton on the west coast of Scotland. When I arrived after an amazing train journey there was a torrential rainfall so I relaxed in my cozy B&B and read a book. By the evening Mother Nature played along and gave me stunning dusk moments and these amazing reflections.

The last rays of the setting sun lit up the picturesque shore at Plockton and the waters of the Loch Carron estuary. I had to fight off the pesky midges on this calm evening but this view was well worth it.

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Peaceful Hebridean Dawn

The first rays of dawn cast a warm glow over the serene waters off the Tarbert coast, revealing the barren hillsides, tiny islets and rugged rocks that dot the remote shoreline, and adding to the mystique of this Hebridean paradise.

I’d booked a bed and breakfast right on the shore near the picturesque harbour town of Tarbert which is nestled in the heart of the Outer Hebrides. It promised sea views from our bedroom window and we were not dissapointed. I set the alarm for just before dawn and enjoyed stunning views, nothing short of majestic masterpieces by Mother Nature.

I often dream of this special memory many years later and am so thrilled that someone bought it today to hang on their wall.

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Dawn Skies over the North Sea

It was a breathtaking dawn after the Spring flood storms of the evening before, and the early morning sun on the horizon reflected on the North Sea waters. The cliffs created a moody silhouette as a backdrop to this beautiful beach scene.

Well worth getting up early to enjoy the dramatic dawn skies over the Scottish North Sea coast. It was so peaceful, standing there alone on the beach at Eyemouth with only the sound of the gulls overhead and the waves washing the shore.

Make sure you visit this pretty fishing town in the Scottish Borders if you are travelling this way.

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Remote Port Ness Beach

The north west of the Outer Hebridean Isle of Lewis is unique and very remote. I can assure you the journey along single track roads from Stornoway is well worth it. Make sure to explore Port Ness Beach, where towering rocks meet the crashing waves of the Atlantic.

Even if the local school children were having their summer sports day and some were evening swimming in the sea nearby, I recommend you wrap up well against the winds and weather!

This sandy beach with rugged rocks and cliffs is the perfect backdrop for a breathtaking Atlantic seascape. Port Ness (Nis in Gaelic), Isle of Lewis (Eilean Leòdhais), Scotland.

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Glorious Day on Loch Fyne

Travelling southward from Inverary on the Kintyre peninsula we enjoyed many stunning views like this one across Loch Fyne to the hills of Cowal beyond. This spectacular, 65-mile long sea loch in the west of Scotland is washed by tidal waters from the Atlantic. It is also well known for its delicious smoked haddock or Finnan Haddies.

It is a wonderful bus journey from Glasgow through the southern Highlands passing through the pretty town of Inverary towards Tarbet and Campbelltown.

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Magnificent West Sands

I stepped down onto the untamed West Sands Beach and breathed in the salty sea air. It was perfect weather for a stroll as the waves washed against the Scottish North Sea coast. The cloud-kissed horizon and the pristine shoreline made it an unforgettable experience.

St Andrews, with its university and historic old town, is the perfect destination for a day trip or holiday. Take time to enjoy the stunning beaches and explore the fascinating town, castle and abbey ruins and picturesque harbour. Maybe even sign up for a round of golf on the famous golf course. Or take along your bucket and spade and build sandcastles.

St Andrews, Kingdom of Fife, Scotland.

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Golden Amber Moments

I strolled down to the harbour on a wonderfully warm evening in early June and was rewarded with this stunning view of the traditional houses along the shore, bathed in the golden rays of the evening sun – not at all stormy as it looks!

I was accompanied in the distance by a live band playing modern Scottish music at the Annual whisky feis (festival).

You just have to ignore the midges who want to be part of the scene:-/

Bowmore, Islay, Scotland.

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Castlebay Morning Light

I got up early for a walk and enjoyed the stunning views overlooking the natural bay and the beaches of neighbouring Vatersay beyond. The crystal-clear water glistened in the sun, creating a breathtaking sight. Just the birds, the sound of the waves and the breeze as an accompaniement. Capturing the essence of the Scottish Hebridean islands.

Castlebay, Isle of Barra, Outer Hebrides.

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Charming Cellardyke Harbour

When staying over in the Anstruther in the East Neuk of Fife, I wandered along the coast and stepped back in time to enjoy the history of idyllic Cellardyke, formerly known as Nether Kilrenny or Sillerdyke. Originally built in the 16th century, the picturesque harbour was rebuilt around 1830 with typical coastal architecture and red pan tile rooves. I enjoyed exploring the quaint village and the pier with its lobster pots and washing lines.

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Tranquil Hebridean Dawn

I was up before dawn to visit the famous standing stones at Callanais and still had time before my well-earned full Scottish breakfast:-) So I headed up the coast and discovered this beautiful hamlet of Tolsta Chaolais nestled in the middle of nowhere.

The tranquility of a new day at Loch a’ Bhaile, as the sun gently rises over the calm waters, casting a mirror-like reflection of the surrounding Hebridean landscape – a scene that’s both peaceful and powerful, a testament to the wild beauty of Scotland’s remote islands. Tolsta Chaolais, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides (Gaelic: Tolstadh A Chaolais or Tolasdadh A Chaolais, Eilean Leòdhais, Na h-Eileanan Siar).

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Beautiful Bunnahabhain Beach

Well worth taking a stroll along the beautiful beach at Bunnahabhain (Tràigh Bun na h-Abhainne) for the stunning views across the Sound of Islay before popping in for a visit to the distillery of the same name nearby to sample the delicious golden amber.

Bunnahabhain, Isle of Islay, Argyll & Bute, Scotland, UK.

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Dawn Light at Eyemouth

Fate and a brilliant suggestion from my dear Sis brought me here unexpectedly on a March day.

After a stormy Spring tide the evening before there was a beautiful, calming start to the new day.

Just after sunrise looking over the beach and bay in the pretty harbour town of Eyemouth, Berwickshire in the Scottish Borders.

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Peaceful Port Charlotte Dawn

I stood on the small beach near the harbour and enjoyed a peaceful moment just before the sun came up.

A small fishing boat is anchored nearby in the golden, calm waters of Loch Indaal, while the Paps of Jura mountains on the neighbouring island form a silhouette in the distance.

Port Charlotte, Islay, Inner Hebrides, Argyll & Bute, Scotland.

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Rosamol Beach, Luskentyre

Far from the madding crowd. Miles of golden sand on this remote beach, often called Luskentyre Beach.

Well worth the journey up the picturesque single track road. Rosamol beach (Tràigh Rosamol) lies half a mile or 0.8 km northwest of Luskentyre (Losgaintir) in the south west of Harris. Amazing views of the long sandy, beach and the sound across to the isle of Taransay await you after the walk through the dunes. Tráigh Losgaintir, Isle of Harris (Na Hearadh), Outer Hebrides, Scotland.

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Locals’ View of the White Beaches

When approaching the famous White Beaches on the coastal road from the south you will be greeted by views like this. Before driving a few hundred yards to scenes like this. Isle of Harris, Outer Hebrides, Scotland.

A small flock of local sheep on the hillside above Taransay Bay who enjoy this spectacular view across one of the beaches to the village of Luskentyre and the Harris hills beyond every day. Not sure if they appreciate it like I do LOL.

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Miles of Magnificent Machir

Magnificent Machir Beach on the west coast of Islay is almost 2 miles long and so far away from it all.

Drive up the single track road and leave your car in the sandy parking area to walk down over the stream to the beach.
Most visitors stay and enjoy the area nearby but head off towards the cliffs in the distance and you will be almost alone.

Kilchoman, Machir or Machrie Beach (Tràigh Mhachir), Islay, Inner Hebrides, Argyll & Bute, Scotland.

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Breathe in that Invigorating Hebridean Air

If you visit the Outer Hebrides, don’t just do the typical tours: if can, travel off the beaten track and take life as it comes. That is not only the Mediterrean but also the Hebridean way of life.

Drive up north from Stornoway and take a walk on the 2 miles of fine, golden sands Tràigh Mhòr beach with views across the Minch and the Atlantic, and you are likely to have it all to yourself.

Breathtaking view from the cliffs tops, north of Tolsta on the Isle of Lewis / Eilean Leòdhais, Outer Hebrides, Scotland.

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